Roasted Rabe Risotto

This is a recipe developed by Kerri Conan of The Bittman Project, which I had to share as this is the season and now is the time for all things rabe!

Of this recipe Kerri Conan writes, “Part risotto, part paella, and yet somehow all about the greens, this recipe is another one of those cases where you can easily vary the main recipe depending on what you have and what you like. I used a whole grain black rice from Italy, called riso nero venere, named after Venus. To adjust the timing for white short-grain varieties, I’ve left you some notes inside the relevant steps.

For the greens, I had young “rabes”—flowering stems—from broccoli, kale, mustard, and chard. And I roasted them harder than some of you would, leaving lots of crisp bits on top with a lightly cooked layer closer to the rice. The method works with any greens. You can also control the char-to-raw ratio by deciding how late in the game you pile them on top of the rice. And finally, to adjust to four servings, double the quantities and use a 12-inch skillet. For a crowd, quadruple the recipe and bake it in a metal 9- by 13-inch roasting pan.”

Creamy Rice & Roasted Rabe, from Kerri Conan at The Bittman Project
Makes 2 servings
Time: 60 to 90 minutes, depending on the type of rice

Ingredients
8 ounces rabe or any other sturdy greens (whole, chopped, or torn)
3 tablespoons olive oil, or melted ghee
Salt
1/2 cup, or half a small sweet onion (like Vidalia) minced
3/4 cup unhulled short-grain rice (NB: I go with Basmati)
1/4 cup dry white wine (or water)
2 to 3 cups water or stock
2 ounces or 1 packed cup Parmesan cheese, grated
Black Pepper

Instructions
1. Heat the oven to 450°F. As you rinse the rabe or greens, trim and discard the toughest stems and tear or cut the leaves into large but manageable pieces. Toss them with 1 tablespoon olive oil and a generous sprinkle of salt. Massage them with your hands to rub in the oil and salt and soften them a bit. Let the greens sit while you get the rice going.

2. Put the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a 10-inch ovenproof skillet over medium heat. When it’s hot add the onion, sprinkle with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until it’s soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Add the rice and stir until it’s glossy and fragrant, about a minute. Pour in the wine or water, raise the heat a little so it bubbles away and deglazes the pan; this will take 3 to 5 minutes.

3. Add 1 cup of stock or water, bring to a gentle boil, and cook, stirring every 5 minutes or so and adding enough water to keep the rice submerged and avoid sticking, until it begins to get tender but is still too firm to eat, 20 to 25 minutes (or 10 to 15 minutes for white rices).

4. Add the cheese and stir until it melts. Add enough water or stock to submerge the rice so that you can’t see the kernels, but you know they’re just under the surface. Taste and add a little more salt if necessary. Return the liquid to a boil and turn off the heat. Pile the prepared greens in the center of the skillet and transfer to the oven.

5. Check the progress after 5 minutes for less browned greens, 10 minutes for charred in places. The rice should still be partially submerged in bubbling liquid and the rabe will shrinking. Lower the oven to 400°F and check again in 10 minutes; taste the rice. Add more water if the rice looks dry and isn’t fully tender yet. If the rice isn’t ready, re-check in another 10 minutes.

6. To form a little crust on the bottom, transfer the skillet to the stove over high heat and crisp the rice until it begins to smell like toast, being careful not to burn it. Sprinkle the greens with lots of pepper and toss before serving.